Natural Wood: Natural wood profiles are extremely meticulous and sharp. They have many inconsistencies, such as splits, cracks, dark areas, warpage, and knots. They are also susceptible to damage from movement when there is little to no humidity present. Priming and painting is then required immediately. Natural wood pieces come in sizes from 14 to 16 feet in length.
Engineered Wood (LDF, MDF, Ultra-lite): This type of engineered wood's profile is not as detailed or sharp as natural wood, but it also does not have as many physical inconsistencies as natural wood. Warpage is also not an issue. Engineered wood is also vulnerable to movement when little to no humidity exists. The wood is produced with prime on the front of the wood, however the primer is quite fragile and can easily have abrasions resulting from the wipe down process. This causes the need for immediate painting of the wood. The wood comes in 14 foot long lengths, which causes the need for seams.
Engineered Wood (HDF): This type of engineered wood's profile is extremely detailed and knife-blade sharp, similar to plaster. There are very few physical inconsistencies when compared to MDF wood. Warpage is never an issue. This wood is resistant to movement when there is little to no humidity (humidity being essential for caulking and filling.) Painting becomes optional due to the high quality primer used, which is painted on both the front and back sides of the wood. The wood does not also suffer abrasions during the wipe down process. HDF pieces come at in lengths of 16 feed, allowing walls to have full pieces of material. This reduces the need for seams.
Plaster: Plaster profiles are extremely detailed and are available in a variety of widths. The length of each piece, however, is only six to eight feet long, creating a need for numerous seams. Seams are an extremely messy process because they have to be compounded, sanded, and then blended. During post-instillation the walls usually have to be repainted because of the laborious and dirty installation process. Although the material looks stunning when first installed, it tends to deteriorate and crack as time goes by.
PVC and Styrofoam Material: I would not recommend this material. It is generally not used by professionals. It is also more of a DIY material. PVC/Styrofoam is usually used in condos due to the concrete walls and ceilings. Width comparison: Natural and engineered wood are available in lengths of five to eight inches wide while plaster profiles are available in a variety of small and large widths.
Cost comparison (lowest to highest): PVC/Styrofoam, LDF/MDF, Natural Wood, HDF, Plaster.
1.) Begin set-up and floor preparation.
2.) Digitally measure the angle of each corner of the wall using a digital protractor. Include the measurement of the wall length. Important Note: Michael digitally measures each corner, unlike faster more common installation methods where all right angle corners are cut to 90 degrees.
This is a poor method because for every degree you are out using six inches of material causes a 1/8 inch gap on one side. The unprofessional looking result is caused by the ¼ inch gap in the corners, which are later filled to compensate for the design. It is common to have 88, 89, 91, and 92 degree right angle corners and neo-angle corners are not always 135 degrees or 22.5. To avoid unnecessary issues, use the digital method in conjunction with proper knowledge about cutting corners to ensure successful results
3.) Cut all of the pieces of material to the correct lengths.
4.) Nail the material to the wall studs and ceiling joints using a combustion nailer. No air compressor is required for this step and would only leave air lines running alongside the walls of the house. Combustion nailers also leave smaller holes in the material, allowing it to be less noticeable and easier to fill later, while pneumatic nailers are very invasive and cause distress marks that are difficult to fill around the nail holes.
5.) Glue the corners together to ensure the project will last.
6.) File all of the nail holes and corners with white wood fillers once all of the material has been installed. Caulk the top and bottom lip. Since high quality wood filler dries white, it makes for a better look than the grey results of cheap and amateur wood fillers.
7.) Wipe down the area with a clean cloth.
8.) Touch-up spots and clean-up any materials and messes resulting from the work.
Bull-nosed corners contain one to two corner pieces. These can be joined together to wrap around the corner radius or one corner can be created with the gap beneath the caulk.
I would say that unpainted, I could install 200-300 Lf of material in ten hours.
There are over fifty one piece traditional and contemporary designs that you would be able to choose from. The widths range from 5" to 7" and our 2 to 3 piece venetian designs can range from 12" - 18".
Humidity is a must during heating season. HDF material is primed on both sides which makes it resistant to the effects of dry air and movement, unlike MDF or wood. Humidity is required during the use of HDF so that the consumables used, such as caulk and filler, will maintain elasticity and flexibility and will not dry and crack.
Yes, I have multiple designs to choose from in HDF, Poplar, and MDF styles. These are installed, caulked, and filled. Priming and painting will be extra.
When selling your home, crown moulding will set your home apart from the others with its beauty. It is an investment that costs very little yet brings so much to your home. If your entire house contains crown moulding you should expect a return in excess of $10,000 at resale time.
Crown moulding adds decadence to your home by softening and bringing a feeling of warmth and comfort to you and your guests as they enjoy your home.
Crown moulding is most common with drywall and stucco. Brick and concrete ceilings, such as those in condo application, are possible but much more labor intensive.
It is neither time or cost effective to do so since the top lip of the crown against the ceiling will be caulked.
Depending on the material you use, painting can be optional or urgently needed. HDF has a satin finish that has great scrubability and resists abrasion during installation, resulting in a very livable post-installation. This allows painting to be optional. After filling, nail holes aren't visible and caulking lines in all corners are clean and razor sharp.
Feel free to paint yourself. I would recommend ceiling paint because of its flatness. It won't contrast with the ceiling and the molding and will create the illusion of a plaster look Use flat or matte paint if you want to paint the moulding a custom color and DO NOT use anything shiny or with a gloss finish.
Yes, please call us 416.900.1299 or e-mail us to get a free estimate.
Although there is no corner charge, installations are generally more expensive per foot.
This usually occurs when adhesive is not used in each corner, which usually occurs because a contractor is attempting to save time. Make sure to do it right the first time by gluing the corners.
It is best if the homeowner moves his or her furniture to the middle of the room prior to our arrival, leaving a three to four foot wide path around the perimeter. Anything too heavy to be done previously can be discussed and dealt with during the installation process.
It is actually quite clean. Cutting is done outside, usually in the driveway. Your garage will only be used in the event of bad weather and is treated with the utmost respect.
Hardwood floors are covered with thick blankets and other surfaces are covered with painters' dropsheets. Usually, ladders will never actually touch your floor.
We provide free estimates within the GTA and surrounding area. Further away, information and estimates will be provided by phone. Call us today 416-900-1299 for your free estimate.